Cetus Fan Shroud with Wind Door

Originally published at: https://www.cetus3d.com/product/cetus-fan-shroud-with-wind-door/

This Fan Shroud is for the V2 hotend, also compatible with V1 hotend.

This is an enssential upgrade if you would like to use the V2 hotend or use the autoleveling probe for MK3.

Hi Jason, can you make another one based on the original fan shroud? Just add the wind door. For those who don’t use the leveling sensor.

Hi @Arnold , I have designed a few air-ducts for the Cetus3D that fit my heavily modded MKII. This one I’m uploading should fit a stock printer, might be a touch too wide but I have no way of knowing for sure. It’s designed for high-speed printing at 100+ mm’s per sec. Let me know if it works for you.

0.40 Nozzle / 0.20LayerHeight / 0.40LayerWidth
DuctLowerV0p022 001 Cetus3DMKII.zip (260.9 KB)

cheers,
Brent
Technology Salad

@techsalad, Hi Brent thank you for sharing this and I’ll ping you soon! Cheers.

@Arnold , if the fit is close but needs to be tweaked let me know and I’ll make small changes. If you’re wondering why the rail-side is lacking any air control, there’s another duct for the other side that cools the motor, the filament entry point and also directs any filament shavings away from the filament entry. Filament shavings and heat-creep if the fan is turned off above 50deg C are the two main reasons for nozzle clog. I have yet to experience nozzle clog and have not cleaned a nozzle even once. Those other ducts will not fit a stock printer.

It’s important to keep the top of the heat-zone in the nozzle at same position, when the fan is turned off before the heat-cartridge has cooled sufficiently the heat creeps upward and relocates the top of the heat-zone, which is then out-of-range for the temperature you extrude the plastic creating a semi-hardened top to the melted plastic below and clunk…clunk…clunk the motor churns to break through that semi-hardened plastic.

edit: I should also mention in case others are reading this thread, moisture in filament is likely more often experienced compared to filament shavings. The moisture in the nozzle heat-zone gathers into a steam bubble and erupts spewing melted plastic upwards(and downwards), the eruptions upward break through the top of the heat-zone flinging melted plastic around the solid filament increasing the diameter which then creates too much friction for the motor’s available torque and/or a larger diameter filament being forced into the narrower opening of the heat chamber and clunk…clunk…clunk the motor churns.

I don’t recommend using a tool that abrasively taints the slippery surface of the upper nozzle interior if cleaning the nozzle to unclog the filament pathway. Instead, increase the temperature just beyond the filament’s max temp without running the fan cooling system and use the extrude function within the maintenance menu in UpStudio. Let the filament start extruding and after 10-15 seconds turn the fan on and let it run through an extrude cycle. Then, with the fan running, perform another extrude cycle or two. When finished a few extrude cycles, leave the fan running til the temperature is below 50deg C (I wait til less than 40degC for all print-jobs, always). Depending on the severity of the clunking, re-calibrate the print-bed level and check the hot-end mount fastening system. The screws used to mount the hot-end have threads too fine for the application and the violent clunking.

cheers,
Brent
Technology Salad

@techsalad, is this how it’s supposed to be mounted?

@Arnold , yes… looks good from this angle. My extruder setup is re-positioned for speed and accuracy. This ducting allows for speeds in excess of 100mm/sec using eSUN PLA+.

@Arnold , I’ve been developing an interchangeable duct system. So you’ll be able to switch ducting based on the material being extruded without using fasteners. On-the-fly, just pause the print and slip a different duct configuration onto the fan.

@Arnold Oh geez, forgot your nozzle/hot-end is sitting roughly 5mm higher than mine in relation to the fan. I have 8mm height clearance for sequential island printing. So, this ducting may not give you a very wide cooling effect being so close to the nozzle-tip height, especially noticeable on larger models with walls between the nozzle tip and the focused air stream.

@techsalad, I’d appreciate a photo of your setup :wink: by the way, I sort of noticed less fan noise with this duct. Is that your experience too?

@Arnold , yes there is less fan noise. It does not impede the air-flow like other ducting systems I’ve seen and used. Other ducts try to redirect the air-flow downwards using a very steep angle… almost 90degrees to the fan-face creating too much blow-back.

If I post a pic of my setup it’ll create too many questions :wink:

I’ve planned to release the mod-package soon once I clean-up the prototypes. There are 11 modifications that stabilize the z-axis and y-axis. There are significant changes to the extruder setup that further isolate the extruder motor from the hot-end/nozzle setup creating an adjustable height and alignment system for the motor, hot-end and cooling system. The extruder motor has a ton of cooling allowing the motor to provide it’s maximum torque throughout a print-job.

There will be a contest at the time of the release with great prizes!

cheers,
Brent

A few recent prints, 0.4 nozzle, 0.20 layer height printed at 90mm/s except the pic with the coupler and nut printed at 65mm/s




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@techsalad what are you slicing and printing with? I am having huge issues at resent getting anything to work with my TinyFab equipped MkII

@brantwinter using Simplify3D to slice and UPStudio v2.6.20.627 on stock MKII electronics and hardware. The only changes to my stock MKII are the bolt-on mods to stiffen the z/y, and the bolt-on replacement mods in the y completely changing the extruder-motor orientation allowing for the huge accuracy improvements.

@techsalad Hi Brent, will your website get updates soon?

@Arnold Hi Arnold, I’d love to just post all the mods and methods allowing this affordable printer the insane accuracy from a cantilever style printer. And the print-speed increase is crazy!

I suppose I must provide a little background to understand the snails-pace this project is suffering from…

Fourteen years ago a car accident completely changed my life and many doctors said I would never work again. But as we humans do, we survive, adapt, and if a passion is strong enough… we sometimes overcome our disabilities for a few hours a day. My days are broken-up into three or four 1.5 hour sessions of being vertical, the rest of my conscious time is horizontal meditating to lessen the effects of extensive soft-tissue damage the length of my spine. Some days I’m blessed to enjoy a little more time to think past the pain, but those days are rare.

This mod project started out with a robust z-axis stiffener, it had to be bolt-on and easy to install. My z-axis is solid, the weakest link now is the stainless steel base everything attaches to, but I also have a solution for that problem. The z-axis mod definitely improved the print quality, but not enough to satisfy me.

My attention focused on the y-axis structure. Four more mods were created, and the print quality improved and higher print-speeds attainable. But again, I was not completely happy. I already knew the extruder motor ran too-hot and being a two-phase stepper it had to rotate far more than a four-phase to achieve the same move. I thought I should publish my findings to this point to help others with their printer woes, started to organize the mods and document methods/procedures but the pain quickly invaded… not enough distraction from the pain. Focusing on the extruder setup got me back into the zone of less pain, so I dealt with the axial torque and the overheating extruder motor. Rock-solid motor mount, waaaay less heat and more torque… excellent. Even higher print-speeds, this is where I broke through the 90mm/sec limit, printing faster with very little loss of quality-of-print. The surface artifacts had decreased substantially at this point, but yeah…still felt there was more I could tackle and solve.

By this point in the project I had poured a ton-of-time into creating/engineering solutions for this little printer with so much potential, and forgot about the cost to my financial stability as a disabled person desperate for a better quality-of-life. This project has given me so many moments of less pain… I had become addicted to product-development and prototyping. So, as you can imagine, nothing else gets done around here!

I kinda stumbled upon the next mod within the extruder setup, but wow… I mean double-wow …the quality-of-print is what you see above in the photos I posted. Am I happy yet?? …I’m frickin’ bouncin’-off-the-walls happy!! Maybe I can hire a housekeeper happy!

So here we are, I have a bunch of mods that make this printer sing, and dread the next step because this process of publishing is going to take away the distractions that allow me moments-of-freedom from the pain.

Is there more to create/engineer and solve… yes, the heat-zone is too long, I’d like at least 12mm’s of sequential printing, a reliable automatic bed leveler, an electronics hat that does not trap heat, reliable flexible filament printing, an alignment jig for x/y/z…etc etc … I have many on the list! Do I already have solutions… yes. Do I have freedom from the box-of-pain… only when I’m in the engineering and/or creation mode.

It’s not long til I release the mod-package, I’ve stopped development of any additional mods. I’m working as fast as possible to clean-up the prototypes and get some documentation going.

cheers,
Brent

Hi Brent, thanks for sharing a bit of your background! Your prints look really amazing and I’m very looking forward to see how you achieved all of this! I did some minor mods and improvements on my Cetus MK3 setup, but mostly peripheral ones. I can totally relate how designing/prototyping pulls you in a zone and happy that it helps you push your pain in the background for a bit! All the best to you in the meantime!

PS: Can you add a link to your website in your profile? I have trouble finding it…

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@superhans , profile is updated… I was trying to avoid any attention to the website, it’s extremely basic and not interactive as yet.

Tks for taking the time to understand why this project has been so slooooow to publish, wish I could wave-my-hand and poof …done …and many folks unleashing the full-potential of this little printer.

I have another printed model pic to share…yesterday I mounted a .2mm nozzle which I hadn’t used since purchasing the printer last year and not since sparking-up Simplify3D. The printer’s firmware is compensating for something…after calibrating z, and loading a gcode file from S3D, UpStudio was printing in air at .10LHeight. Normally, I print without any software tricks, rafts, supports etc etc… just a brim on an optical mirror with green painter’s tape and the extra length of the green painter’s tape is sandwiching the mirror to the stock build-plate with 20+ brass shims in-between. After offsetting z by .10mm …still printing in air, lacking the time investigate I printed at .15LHeight and .25LWidth…just barely tho. I’ll post the pic soon, need a flat-black background to show-off the crisp edges.

cheers,
Brent

@techsalad Thanks! Will keep an eye on your page and any posts here in the forum! :slight_smile:

Cheers,

Andreas

First few prints failed as mentioned in above post and having very little experience using a .20mmNozzle 10mmLayerHeight .25LineWidth, my build-platform leveling strategy required a more aggressive procedure.

Removed the green painters tape and calibrated within UPStudio using a .04mm sheet of paper from my Engineers Pocket Reference…yikes …but no worries, used a page from the perpetual calendar :wink: . The setting at each calibration point… paper is barely movable without tearing.

Re-applied green painters tape and used spatula to lightly smooth the peaks and valleys.

Back into the 9 point calibration using a .02mm brass shim and setting at each calibration point…cannot move the shim without tearing and no-dimples in shim. Confirmed the calibration procedure using the exact height as determined using the shim. No offsets or adding/subtracting from the exact height, this nozzle height is used in S3D and UPStudio. Loaded a dummy stl file into UPStudio and right-clicked to delete all models. Restarted UPStudio and performed an extrude cycle to check for moisture in the filament and nozzle heat-zone. Good-to-go…

Next post will show the print result, please keep-in-mind I do not care about bridging fails, small artifacts resulting from layer-changes or any other surface-quality fails controlled by tweaking print-profiles in software/firmware. For me, and the scope of this project, the measure of pass/fail is determining if the hardware mods I’ve created are providing the hardware backbone of the 3D print-process allowing for extreme accuracy and higher print-speeds in excess of 100mm/sec.

Cheers,
Brent
Technology Salad