Will print PETG at 245* C...picture attached

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First photo

simple PETG toroid (I removed the raft and then remembered I needed a picture...doh!)

Second photo

eSun yellow PETG filament

Created custom filament settings but only thing I changed is the temp. Set it to 245*C.

I'm confused that it wants (has to have a positive value) for a heated bed...??....

Also...I guess I can change the mass of the filament and it will...print heavier or lighter?

It did click at first but after raft it was fine. I'm guessing it was trying to extude fairly heavy but filament wasn't flowing well enough. Probably need to raise the temp a little more 

I'm now printing a 13 hour 15.3cm OD x 12.7cm tall hex holder....we'll just have to see how our new little guy will do.

Oh well...off to play Mechwarrior Online till it's done.



Nice. I noticed PETG didn't require a heated bed, and was about to order some to test it. Nice to see it's working.

I still need to tweak the settings but it will print it...


Does anyone know if any part of the extruder contains PTFE? My friend's reaction when I linked to this forum post was one of concern. Apparently the gassing point for PTFE is around 250C and the gas it produces is toxic.

I think being able to print PETG is totally awesome and I'd love confirmation that I'm not going to kill myself with poison gas. :-)

the nozzle contain PTFE, but the melting point of PTFE should be above 300C and long term usage temperature can reach up to 260C. So there should be no problem.

I'm finding conflicting information on this. Wikipedia and other sources suggest the melting point is over 300 C, but this study (?) of the Teflon non-stick coating from nearly 15 years ago suggests gassing at a much lower temperature.


[quote][size=2][color=#999999]pov post at 2017-2-2 15:42[/color][/size]
I'm finding conflicting information on this. Wikipedia and other sources suggest the melting poi …[/quote]

Another article suggests the magic number is about 280 C before toxic fumes from PTFE begin to kill birds.


Anyways, I've ordered some PETG myself. I'm finding myself getting super interested in all the learning how to make the most of the materials.

I stumbled across this article from Rigid Ink on their PETG, and read something that really surprised me.


Later in the article, they suggest adding a 0.2mm gap between the filament and where you typically print PLA. That's supposed to improve stringing. I didn't expect that. Also not to use a fan, which is supposed to maximize strength (at the cost of some detailing). As far as I know we can't disable or change the speed of the fan, so one might have to try the gap techniques, to see if it makes a difference.


So I printed a nearly perfect Benchy in PETG (transparent one above). The PETG used was a cheap ~$22 USD 1kg roll I ordered from a Canadian reseller.

My Settings:

* 0.4mm nozzle

* 0.2mm layers

* 230 C (spool was spec'd 220-260 C)

* Raft, but no supports

* -1.0mm offset ***


- As mentioned, I did introduce an offset in to the print. The Cetus3D software only allows offsets from -1.0 to +1.0, so I stuck with -1.0 (instead of -0.2 as it was suggested).

- There was nearly no stringing, but there was some minor drooping. The filament itself oozed out of the nozzle before printing began, and the raft was extremely rough (more so than my typical PLA prints), but it worked out in the end.

- It appears the base-layer of the raft and the part that directly touches the print weren't solidly connected (took very little force to remove). The benchy itself, the base looks like it *slightly* warped. It's extremely subtle though, and nowhere near as bad as an ABS warp. If you weren't looking for it, you wouldn't notice it.


Next time, I'd like to try 220 C with the filament. The oozing before the print began worried me a bit, and though it did have some minor drooping in the front window, it was a near flawless print. I also need to do a bunch of stress testing, since I'm not really sure why I should choose PETG vs PLA (I have transparent versions of both).

Would like to know how you got No Support. It doesn't seem to be working for me. Even when I have No Support selected in Preferences I still get support. Right now that's my biggest complaint about the printer.

That is strange. It has never not worked for me. I'm even on WiFi. About the only thing I can suggest is make sure you're using the Cetus software and not the UP software, since it's something that should be entirely on the software end.

I'm printing PETG and the only change I made was to raise the temp to 250C, I left all the other settings at the defaults. So far I've printed almost a full Kg of filament and the only problem I have is that it's kind of hard to remove the raft from the finished model. Even that is hit and miss, sometimes the raft just pops right off, other times I have to fight it all the way off! And I'm making several copies of the same thing, so it's not a matter of it being a different stl file!