I’m having problems with my Up Box that probably aren’t software related (I see the issues with multiple versions of Up Studio and also the older ‘‘Up software’’ version 2.21).
When I print a calibration cube of 20X20X20 mm one side is about 19.9/20.0 mm but another side is only 19.45 mm - there is also a gap visible between the infill.
I also have underextrusion, I even went back to standard ABS settings which are a bit too hot for my ABS but still you can see a bit through the layers and infill isn’t closed…
I checked the filament, it’s normal as usual and not too thin. I did a calibration reset in the Up software but the problems are still there.
What could this be? I did try the Up Studio Soda beta and am afraid this could have changed some things in the Up Box firmware or something, it’s so strange.
I replaced the CPU and formatted the miscro SD card, used another laptop and still I get prints with wrong dimensions. I checked the print head/belts and it doesn’t really have slack.
I checked even more things, I lubricated all axes and checked the belts again. Also checked screws and all kinds of parts. The XY gantry seems to have no obsctuctions.
Tiertime, any idea? When I print a small cylinder of 30 mm diameter it measures 29.2 mm front to back (X axis) and 29.7 mm wide/Y axis.
I tried another mother board and USB cable (still no solution) so that leaves little that can be the problem.
Maybe the X axis does have a problem or the stepper motor or something is giving issues like a cable or other electronic board? @Jason-TT do you have any idea?
But the models are printed too small so I would think there would be overextrusion…
While taking apart the XY gantry the little belt for the X axis broke (maybe it was already worn out) so I ordered a spare and hope that will fix it or else I can’t use this printer anymore - I can’t print for customers with that much dimensional INaccuracy.
I have an update on this, it was a terrible job but I completely removed the XY gantry and replaced every belt - lubricated everything again and tightened all screws.
I also replaced the X axis blocks that keep the rod in the back in place - the standard version breaks relatively easy and I updated the STL file for replacement here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1738378
Now the values are much more what they should be and I can use the XYZ axial calibration to get it as close to perfect as possible.