I'm curious to know how other users remove thier prints from the build platform ?
I know I could use brute force and scrape it off the build plate but fear that over time I would knock the build plate out of alignment.
On my older UpPlus2 printer the build surface can easierly be removed from the build plate to stop this problem.
Thanks in Advance
Sandy
It depends on the surface you're printing on. I'm using LokBuild and prints stick very well. I use a chisel laid flat on the surface to get under a corner. I'm not pushing down into the surface. A chisel with a flat back and sharp edge slides easily between the part and the surface. Sometimes that's all it takes and the part pops off. If not then I use the removal tool to finish the job.
<p>I have the heated bed, and two of the coated aluminum plates. I have epoxied registration pins on the heated plate, and milled pockets for the pins on the aluminum plates so they always go in the same orientation and position (as I have fly cut the underside of the plates so they match in thickness and flatness) and will stay in place during printing.</p><p>I don’t print until the plate is 58°C, and when I am done printing, I lift the plate off the printer and run it under cool water, the print pops off on its own accord, and then I dry off the plate and part, wipe the plate down with 90% rubbing alcohol, and let it dry, and use the other plate while the wet plate is drying.</p><p>I don’t use tape or any other chemicals or goop to promote adhesion, I currently only print with PLA.</p><p>I print with brims on something with a small base that is tall, but otherwise I tend to print without rafts or brims, or supports. I print exclusively with G-code, the cetus software in my use-case is just for delivering g-code to the machine.</p><p> </p><p> </p>
<p>When the print is done, I just turn off the (heated) print bed. Once everything has cooled down, PLA is already detached and PETG only sticks slightly.Patience is a virtue … and saves print beds. :-)</p>
<p>I have the same issue - to remove prints from original not heated, but Coated Build Plate is nearly impossible. I usually need hammering prints from the platform. Am I doing something wrong? </p><p>By the way, all prints leave deep marks in the platform. </p><p>Help would be highly appreciated.</p>
<p>To remove items from the build plate get yourself a Cricut Spatula. It’s the best 3d printing tool I own. It’s blade is so thin it can slip under any model on a build plate quite easily. All corners are smooth and rounded so it’s very safe. The tool is available on Amazon or at craft shops such as Hobby Lobby and JoAnn Fabrics. Honestly buy two cause I wore my first one out. You will be so surprised how easily this tool pops models off the build plate.</p><p>https://www.amazon.com/Cricut-Tools-Spatula-and-Scraper/dp/B00EZUK7IG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540342617&sr=8-1&keywords=cricut+spatula</p><p>Another thing you can do is buy a Buildtak surface (original or PEI) to put over the build plate. I found that PLA stuck to that surface to well. The Buildtak solution covers the four holes as well and is super easy to replace if necessary. You will need to buy a 8” x 8” size and trim it down. I’m using both on my Cetus printers and they work great. You will still need a spatula.</p>
I'm having great results from the Ziflex removable flexible magnetic print bed from Zimple 3D. When the print is done I just slide the print surface off and let it cool for a moment. Then the parts just peel right off. I can have the parts removed and be ready to print again in less time than it takes to slice and send the next model to the printer. A removable print surface completely eliminates the concerns about causing potential damage to the heated bed or printer when removing parts. I can highly recommend it.
https://www.zimple3d.com
I use the spatula what came with the printer. I put the spatula against the print with a shallow angel on the bed and hit it with my other hand.