I'm finding that parts are becomming welded to the coated build plate to the point where I now have a part that I simply cannot remove. With some significant effort I can get the removal tool under the edge of the raft but directly under the part it's a different story. When I can get a part removed there's a permanent image of the raft in the coating.
Any ideas on how to get a welded part off the coated bed without destroying both?
I finally resorted to a brute force method. I took the build plate off with my print attached (Fortunately my print wasn't covering the screws) and headed for the garage. I used a clamp to hold the plate on its edge, wedged the removal tool under the edge of the raft then gave the tool a quick smack. The part popped off taking a small piece of the coating with it.
Time to move on to the non-coated plate that I happen to have ordered. I also backed the LokBuild campaign and just recieved 5 sheets in the mail. I'll put that on the un-coated plate later today and try again.
This post caught me by suprise. I am printing a lot already and my favorite part has been how easy the parts pop off the platform. I have used numerous printers in the past and this platform has been the best in terms of part adhesion and ease of removal. I wonder if it has to do with your material. I have only used the Cetus PLA and Polymaker PLA Plus so far and I am not kidding when I say the parts pop off perfectly with hardly any effort.
Your nozzle may be too close to the plate so it's really stuck on. Also I dont print at 210c which is the default temp. I print at 200c and it comes out better with no issues and better print results.
I ordered several bare aluminum build plates with my backing pledge, and applied BuildTak to one of them as my initial build platform. Since I'm used to BT on my other printers it has been working out well, especially now that I've figured out the leveling in software. When it comes time to replace my BT sheet, I may install my coated plate and see how that one goes.
I'm using a LokBuild sheet on a plain bed and it's working well once I got it dialed in. I found a good test subject. It's Dilbert's glasses from Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1689535
Print the glasses just the way they naturally land on the build plate with 0.1mm layer height and using the Fine option. No Raft! If you're even just a bit too high they won't stick. Just work the nozzle postion in the calibration screen by small increments closer to the bed (higher numbers) until you can get those to stick and print successfully.